Logan & Ninja, Perigord to Budapest
I don't do many cats, not out of choice, that's just the way it is, but back in October 2015 I had a journey which took LDDD into its own personal record books.
A Canadian lady, working for the UN and living in Budapest, had taken a very strong fancy to two Siamese strays found on the streets of Perigueux. She arranged to adopt them but, as she was in Canada at the time, caring for a sick father, paid the fee and agreed to pay also for their care in a foster home not far from me in the Dordogne.
Wondering how to get them home when the time came it was suggested to her that I could take them to Charles de Gaulle airport if she could arrange their transport from there. So she got in touch and asked for a quote. This I did but also, only half in jest, gave her the figure for delivery all the way, to Hungary.
To my complete surprise she accepted the latter immediately. Of course, after paying for taxis and return air fares for herself and the cats, added to my costs to Paris, it obviously seemed well worthwhile. So the deal was done.
Only problem was her father's health worsened and she could not be sure exactly when the transfer could be made. Nevertheless, Annabel, who was fostering the little ones was prepared to look after them without limit of time and so we settled down to wait.
Eventually, father improved and the return to Budapest was booked, for her and the cats. So, in order to avoid a really early start I collected the cats one Sunday evening and brought them home. My dog, easy with all animals and people, took only a passing interest in the new arrivals in the large mobile cage.
Then, at a reasonable time on Monday morning I set off for a routier I know near Belfort, before the German border. The patron came out to make sure I wasn't a non-dining tourist and to direct me to a quiet spot for the night. Normally at this point I walk my dogs and give them their meal and some water, but with cats it's different. They are very slippery customers and cannot be released before destination. However, unlike dogs, they do have a litter tray so, with cat food in 2 bowls and water as well, they were well catered for. That done I was inside for my meal with colleagues, in this part of the world, from several nationalities.
The Departure
https://youtu.be/gYFDjNxB2tE
Day 2 was misty and I left, again, not too early, aiming for a German routier not far from the Austrian border and I didn't want to be there too soon. Unlike in France almost all my journey was on autobahns so I reckoned I would make good time. Much better than I thought in fact as I arrived at Hengersberg at 4pm, way too early. However, I wasn't sure of another suitable place like this if I carried on and, on schedule for my 3 day trip, parked up anyway.
Many years ago my young brother had presented me, as a birthday gift, a small book called European Menu Reader, with meals and food translated in every European language. And I mean every one. Sadly somewhere along the line of several house moves it had got mislaid so I ventured into the large dining hall completely unarmed. But help was at hand, there was a large menu above the counter but all I could understand was, goulash! Still, I like goulash, so ordered it along with, based on bitter experience years ago of drinking wine in beer drinking countries, a large beer. It was wonderful, as was the large portion of creamy cake that I followed it with. Well satisfied I wandered back to the small Teardrop caravan I towed at that time, to read and sleep.
Day 2 Across Germany to Hengersberg
https://youtu.be/oEffboMUaHM
The next morning it was raining hard and I was glad that I had put some diesel in the tank in the dry. Enough to get me to Slovakia where I thought it was cheaper. I set off for Austria, but with the free motorway ending before the border I turned off to take to the minor roads. Just how minor I was about to find out when, first still in Germany and then in Austria, I was turned off the main roads in diversions along forest tracks.
Still making good time in spite of this I soon, in better weather, began to appreciate the beautifully eastern inspired churches in this part of the world and also the immaculately coloured houses. I don't think I have ever seen cleaner neighbourhoods anywhere.
Skirting the Czech border and keeping to the north of Vienna, I crossed the Danube for the first time, and then again, to enter Slovakia. Passing through the outskirts of Bratislava I had no difficulty in finding my way to Komarno and over the Danube for the third time and into Hungary. Though not before I passed a Tesco with cheaper diesel then I had seen so far. I had enough to get to Budapest and back, no euros in Hungary so didn't want to fill up there, so pressed on marking my re-fuelling point for the return. It very nearly got me into trouble as we will see later.
My satnav had ceased to give directions on leaving Austria but it still showed my position and a few unnamed roads and, more importantly, which way was north. So on I pressed. The roads here were not as good as the excellent Slovakian ones but I still made good time though it was obvious that I would be a bit late on my estimate. So I phoned Clare and left a message.
Day 3 Austria, Slovakia & Hungary
https://youtu.be/YmUbyFE7gFk
Through Tata and Tatabanya in gathering dusk and increasing rain I was doing very well till I got to the outskirts of Budapest. Knowing that my GPS wouldn't be available, before I left home in addition to my normal printed route on the sun visor, I had taken the precaution of printing out some street maps as well. As I felt I was getting near to an important left turn I tried to scan the street names as I passed, but the rain, dark and dazzling oncoming lights meant that I had to keep stopping and walking across to read them. The roads got busier as I neared the centre and I asked directions several times. Nobody seemed to know their own neighbourhood and even, beforehand, what the next village was called. At one point, thinking I had seen a restaurant on the other side of the road, I pulled across and parked, only to find that the 'restaurant' was in fact a tram, and I was parked on the tracks!! Eventually I stopped outside a busy hotel/restaurant and ventured inside. The young women serving were very keen to help but insisted on calling their male supervisor. He was useless, didn't even seem to know where we were in relation to my map. Thank goodness, he soon gave up and went away leaving me with the 2 young ladies again. They understood perfectly what I wanted and counted the streets for me to the one I needed, which I of course soon found and pulled up outside the apartment block only 1 hour late in a 3 day journey.
A phone call brought Clare down to help me with the extrication and safe carriage of the cats, and we were soon upstairs in the warm with a welcome aperitif. This was no Soviet bloc concrete monstrosity but a spacious and elegantly furnished flat in a a Victorian mansion. The cats were released to explore, searching everywhere for the resident cat which was not in evidence, to be introduced gently at a later time.
Day 4, Exploring, Evening & Morning
https://youtu.be/DHoJACVyCRY
In the morning, after a good night's sleep and breakfast I was soon on my way again. Still raining, I managed to retrace my route without difficulty and, back in Slovakia , pulled into Tesco to re-fuel.
In Hengersberg I had bought a 100 km sticker for the back of the trailer, as I was sure that that was the limit in most countries and the speed which I stick to in any case. But, due to all the rain, I had not put it on, so prepared to pull into a spacious lay-by to do so. I was forestalled though, the lay-by was full of police and I was duly pulled in. I explained, apologetically, in English and French that I spoke no Slovakian which gave the official pause for thought. 'Kein Deutch?' he asked hopefully, I understood and shrugged a no. Thinking deeply he then worked out his pantomime. 'In Republick Slovakie, must put lamps'. This accompanied by facing forward and flicking open his outstretched fingers in imitation of headlamps. Of course, dipped headlamps obligatory 24 hours a day. I knew that, and had followed the code, till I got to Tesco that is. My turn for the pantomime. 'Tesco' (hand pointing backwards over my shoulder), 'diesel' (filling motion with right hand), 'lamps off' (switching motion with right hand), 'forgot' (not knowing the word he would understand for 'forgot' or 'stupid' I accompanied this with a time honoured international gesture and slapped my forehead with the palm of my hand, dramatically flinging it upwards and outwards as I did so). He understood and grinned, and, imitating my 'sorry', he replied 'sawrry', then 'GO', and waved me away. I went.
I decided not to push my luck and bother with the sticker till the next lay-by.
Empty Across Austria, the Return
https://youtu.be/2KMYQWHfYPY
Not so many deviations in Austria this time, but this might have been because I took a main road out of Bratislava and across the border at a main crossing point. No hold ups but obviously a heavy police and customs presence in stark contrast to my crossing of a minor bridge on a forest track the day before. Fair enough, but this took me to Vienna, into Vienna, and I had to rely on the satnav to weave my way through the city streets. Nevertheless, I arrived back at Hengersberg in good time and ate, you guessed it, goulash. Lovely. Since then I have managed to find online the exact publication my brother gave me all those years ago, so subsequent cross border trips have produced a greater variety of diet.
Back to Belfort, but this time the southerly route, via Munich and Stuttgart, rather than the outward trace past Heidelberg and Nuremburg. Couldn't spot a difference, in time or distance but sympathy was felt for the log jam on the opposite carriageway in a 20 km bouchon caused by a minor accident in a roadworks.
At Belfort I was way too early to eat and decided to press on. I found a little log cabin type routier near Vesoul where I had an excellent meal with 4 other drivers. The next day being Saturday, it wasn't open so I pressed on to see if a favourite of mine from my 'professional' days was open. It was, so breakfast was assured. I say favourite because I enjoyed the food there, but in another way it was anything but. One job I did often when I was working was a load overnight to Dijon, unload then reload at the Lu biscuit factory at Besancon. At the limit of my hours I then had to park up for the day at Mounteplaine. Fair enough, but this was along the side of the road in a disused quarry, with its white faced cliffs facing south. In summer it was a hell hole during the day, and trying to sleep was very difficult. I had a clim, but in those days it only worked with the engine turning. I tried ticking over, a l'Americaine (the Yanks call it idling and I suspect have a special setting on their controls, furthermore, their exhaust stacks are high above the cab and there is little danger of the suffocation we Europeans risk with our low down pipes). In any case, it doesn't work, less than 5 minutes after switching off, the cab is just as hot again.
No such problems this time, on a chilly and misty October morning I was glad of the warm welcome inside and the hot coffee before my visit to the clean sanitation area.
Then home for Saturday afternoon
3,726 kms
A Canadian lady, working for the UN and living in Budapest, had taken a very strong fancy to two Siamese strays found on the streets of Perigueux. She arranged to adopt them but, as she was in Canada at the time, caring for a sick father, paid the fee and agreed to pay also for their care in a foster home not far from me in the Dordogne.
Wondering how to get them home when the time came it was suggested to her that I could take them to Charles de Gaulle airport if she could arrange their transport from there. So she got in touch and asked for a quote. This I did but also, only half in jest, gave her the figure for delivery all the way, to Hungary.
To my complete surprise she accepted the latter immediately. Of course, after paying for taxis and return air fares for herself and the cats, added to my costs to Paris, it obviously seemed well worthwhile. So the deal was done.
Only problem was her father's health worsened and she could not be sure exactly when the transfer could be made. Nevertheless, Annabel, who was fostering the little ones was prepared to look after them without limit of time and so we settled down to wait.
Eventually, father improved and the return to Budapest was booked, for her and the cats. So, in order to avoid a really early start I collected the cats one Sunday evening and brought them home. My dog, easy with all animals and people, took only a passing interest in the new arrivals in the large mobile cage.
Then, at a reasonable time on Monday morning I set off for a routier I know near Belfort, before the German border. The patron came out to make sure I wasn't a non-dining tourist and to direct me to a quiet spot for the night. Normally at this point I walk my dogs and give them their meal and some water, but with cats it's different. They are very slippery customers and cannot be released before destination. However, unlike dogs, they do have a litter tray so, with cat food in 2 bowls and water as well, they were well catered for. That done I was inside for my meal with colleagues, in this part of the world, from several nationalities.
The Departure
https://youtu.be/gYFDjNxB2tE
Day 2 was misty and I left, again, not too early, aiming for a German routier not far from the Austrian border and I didn't want to be there too soon. Unlike in France almost all my journey was on autobahns so I reckoned I would make good time. Much better than I thought in fact as I arrived at Hengersberg at 4pm, way too early. However, I wasn't sure of another suitable place like this if I carried on and, on schedule for my 3 day trip, parked up anyway.
Many years ago my young brother had presented me, as a birthday gift, a small book called European Menu Reader, with meals and food translated in every European language. And I mean every one. Sadly somewhere along the line of several house moves it had got mislaid so I ventured into the large dining hall completely unarmed. But help was at hand, there was a large menu above the counter but all I could understand was, goulash! Still, I like goulash, so ordered it along with, based on bitter experience years ago of drinking wine in beer drinking countries, a large beer. It was wonderful, as was the large portion of creamy cake that I followed it with. Well satisfied I wandered back to the small Teardrop caravan I towed at that time, to read and sleep.
Day 2 Across Germany to Hengersberg
https://youtu.be/oEffboMUaHM
The next morning it was raining hard and I was glad that I had put some diesel in the tank in the dry. Enough to get me to Slovakia where I thought it was cheaper. I set off for Austria, but with the free motorway ending before the border I turned off to take to the minor roads. Just how minor I was about to find out when, first still in Germany and then in Austria, I was turned off the main roads in diversions along forest tracks.
Still making good time in spite of this I soon, in better weather, began to appreciate the beautifully eastern inspired churches in this part of the world and also the immaculately coloured houses. I don't think I have ever seen cleaner neighbourhoods anywhere.
Skirting the Czech border and keeping to the north of Vienna, I crossed the Danube for the first time, and then again, to enter Slovakia. Passing through the outskirts of Bratislava I had no difficulty in finding my way to Komarno and over the Danube for the third time and into Hungary. Though not before I passed a Tesco with cheaper diesel then I had seen so far. I had enough to get to Budapest and back, no euros in Hungary so didn't want to fill up there, so pressed on marking my re-fuelling point for the return. It very nearly got me into trouble as we will see later.
My satnav had ceased to give directions on leaving Austria but it still showed my position and a few unnamed roads and, more importantly, which way was north. So on I pressed. The roads here were not as good as the excellent Slovakian ones but I still made good time though it was obvious that I would be a bit late on my estimate. So I phoned Clare and left a message.
Day 3 Austria, Slovakia & Hungary
https://youtu.be/YmUbyFE7gFk
Through Tata and Tatabanya in gathering dusk and increasing rain I was doing very well till I got to the outskirts of Budapest. Knowing that my GPS wouldn't be available, before I left home in addition to my normal printed route on the sun visor, I had taken the precaution of printing out some street maps as well. As I felt I was getting near to an important left turn I tried to scan the street names as I passed, but the rain, dark and dazzling oncoming lights meant that I had to keep stopping and walking across to read them. The roads got busier as I neared the centre and I asked directions several times. Nobody seemed to know their own neighbourhood and even, beforehand, what the next village was called. At one point, thinking I had seen a restaurant on the other side of the road, I pulled across and parked, only to find that the 'restaurant' was in fact a tram, and I was parked on the tracks!! Eventually I stopped outside a busy hotel/restaurant and ventured inside. The young women serving were very keen to help but insisted on calling their male supervisor. He was useless, didn't even seem to know where we were in relation to my map. Thank goodness, he soon gave up and went away leaving me with the 2 young ladies again. They understood perfectly what I wanted and counted the streets for me to the one I needed, which I of course soon found and pulled up outside the apartment block only 1 hour late in a 3 day journey.
A phone call brought Clare down to help me with the extrication and safe carriage of the cats, and we were soon upstairs in the warm with a welcome aperitif. This was no Soviet bloc concrete monstrosity but a spacious and elegantly furnished flat in a a Victorian mansion. The cats were released to explore, searching everywhere for the resident cat which was not in evidence, to be introduced gently at a later time.
Day 4, Exploring, Evening & Morning
https://youtu.be/DHoJACVyCRY
In the morning, after a good night's sleep and breakfast I was soon on my way again. Still raining, I managed to retrace my route without difficulty and, back in Slovakia , pulled into Tesco to re-fuel.
In Hengersberg I had bought a 100 km sticker for the back of the trailer, as I was sure that that was the limit in most countries and the speed which I stick to in any case. But, due to all the rain, I had not put it on, so prepared to pull into a spacious lay-by to do so. I was forestalled though, the lay-by was full of police and I was duly pulled in. I explained, apologetically, in English and French that I spoke no Slovakian which gave the official pause for thought. 'Kein Deutch?' he asked hopefully, I understood and shrugged a no. Thinking deeply he then worked out his pantomime. 'In Republick Slovakie, must put lamps'. This accompanied by facing forward and flicking open his outstretched fingers in imitation of headlamps. Of course, dipped headlamps obligatory 24 hours a day. I knew that, and had followed the code, till I got to Tesco that is. My turn for the pantomime. 'Tesco' (hand pointing backwards over my shoulder), 'diesel' (filling motion with right hand), 'lamps off' (switching motion with right hand), 'forgot' (not knowing the word he would understand for 'forgot' or 'stupid' I accompanied this with a time honoured international gesture and slapped my forehead with the palm of my hand, dramatically flinging it upwards and outwards as I did so). He understood and grinned, and, imitating my 'sorry', he replied 'sawrry', then 'GO', and waved me away. I went.
I decided not to push my luck and bother with the sticker till the next lay-by.
Empty Across Austria, the Return
https://youtu.be/2KMYQWHfYPY
Not so many deviations in Austria this time, but this might have been because I took a main road out of Bratislava and across the border at a main crossing point. No hold ups but obviously a heavy police and customs presence in stark contrast to my crossing of a minor bridge on a forest track the day before. Fair enough, but this took me to Vienna, into Vienna, and I had to rely on the satnav to weave my way through the city streets. Nevertheless, I arrived back at Hengersberg in good time and ate, you guessed it, goulash. Lovely. Since then I have managed to find online the exact publication my brother gave me all those years ago, so subsequent cross border trips have produced a greater variety of diet.
Back to Belfort, but this time the southerly route, via Munich and Stuttgart, rather than the outward trace past Heidelberg and Nuremburg. Couldn't spot a difference, in time or distance but sympathy was felt for the log jam on the opposite carriageway in a 20 km bouchon caused by a minor accident in a roadworks.
At Belfort I was way too early to eat and decided to press on. I found a little log cabin type routier near Vesoul where I had an excellent meal with 4 other drivers. The next day being Saturday, it wasn't open so I pressed on to see if a favourite of mine from my 'professional' days was open. It was, so breakfast was assured. I say favourite because I enjoyed the food there, but in another way it was anything but. One job I did often when I was working was a load overnight to Dijon, unload then reload at the Lu biscuit factory at Besancon. At the limit of my hours I then had to park up for the day at Mounteplaine. Fair enough, but this was along the side of the road in a disused quarry, with its white faced cliffs facing south. In summer it was a hell hole during the day, and trying to sleep was very difficult. I had a clim, but in those days it only worked with the engine turning. I tried ticking over, a l'Americaine (the Yanks call it idling and I suspect have a special setting on their controls, furthermore, their exhaust stacks are high above the cab and there is little danger of the suffocation we Europeans risk with our low down pipes). In any case, it doesn't work, less than 5 minutes after switching off, the cab is just as hot again.
No such problems this time, on a chilly and misty October morning I was glad of the warm welcome inside and the hot coffee before my visit to the clean sanitation area.
Then home for Saturday afternoon
3,726 kms